On what kind of board do you most enjoy playing HeroQuest?

[whitebeard]

The poll suggests that board re-prints cause problems with quest modifications. But the 30mm board is basically the standard board. I have found that only the tables appear to be noticeably smaller as the heroes want to walk through the end spaces.

[GimmeYerGold]

The poll suggests that board re-prints cause problems with quest modifications. But the 30mm board is basically the standard board. I have found that only the tables appear to be noticeably smaller as the heroes want to walk through the end spaces.

Sorry, I may have tainted the poll question in my subsequent post with my own experiences and others about boards

How did you find that the larger board eliminated door blocking?

[whitebeard]

The big board is great, but it is just that--BIG. Sometimes our table doesn't have enough room for it. Some of the original maps need a bit of modification for this, too.

My board is identicle in every way, just bigger. So no mods to anything. The only furature which looks small is the "table".

If you use a board with double wide corridors, then you need quest map mods. Or if you have 40mm you might accept that all furature is 1x1? This changes the mechanics a bit.

Sorry, i did not mean to imply that door blocking was somehow solved.

30mm really doesn't change anything. Just more space. . I'm very happy with mine.

[cornixt]

There isn't really an option for my board. It is a larger scale, more like 25mm squares, and made from tiles, but they are nearly always in position for regular quests rather than laid out as the quest progresses. I suppose that is technically closer to option two, although mine matches up with the original board layout rather than having extra wide corridors or other custom features like that.

[GimmeYerGold]

The big board is great, but it is just that--BIG. Sometimes our table doesn't have enough room for it. Some of the original maps need a bit of modification for this, too.

My board is identicle in every way, just bigger. So no mods to anything. The only furature which looks small is the "table".

If you use a board with double wide corridors, then you need quest map mods. Or if you have 40mm you might accept that all furature is 1x1? This changes the mechanics a bit.

Sorry, i did not mean to imply that door blocking was somehow solved.

30mm really doesn't change anything. Just more space. . I'm very happy with mine.

I use the double-wide corridor 30mm board available at http://www.hq-cooperation.de/english/overlays.html

I do like that with any 30mm board, the furniture takes up less of the room (A table takes up 2x3 squares on the regular board, while it only takes 1x2 squares on the 30mm board. Pass that savings onto the dungeon!)

Do you trim off the HEROQUEST part of your custom board, that normally appears at the bottom of the regular board? Does your large board fold?

[whitebeard]

I center the table and it "occupies" 2x3 spaces no problem... The heroes may not agree.

And it wouldn't be HEROQUEST if you cut it off the bottom of the board!!! . So of coarse I still have it.

And yes, my 30mm board folds (backwards). But I coated it in " contact paper" so it always looks great.

[GimmeYerGold]

I center the table and it "occupies" 2x3 spaces no problem... The heroes may not agree.

And it wouldn't be HEROQUEST if you cut it off the bottom of the board!!! . So of coarse I still have it.

And yes, my 30mm board folds (backwards). But I coated it in " contact paper" so it always looks great.

Nice! (by the way, thanks for being receptive to all my questions!) What source imaged did you use for your large board? Did you score the board after you mounted the image, so that it could fold? Do you have pics of your board, or the process posted anywhere? I was reluctant to try anything clever after mounting my print out on a board, for fear of ruining it! (I printed mine off the work plotter, so it's not as easy to work up a new one if I messed up)

[sajungzak]

I plan to use various trappings from the twisting catacombs to fill the space the map says furniture should occupy on my 40 mm board. without, i just tell the players that x piece of furniture blocks x spaces. But really, even the table at least touches all six squares. Also, it's nice how there is plenty of room for figures next to doors.

[whitebeard]

I plan to use various trappings from the twisting catacombs to fill the space the map says furniture should occupy on my 40 mm board.

Great Idea! You could be sure to stock-up on cheap(er) filler such as corpses (x3 for 2 gold) and barrels (x3 for 2 gold). Equipment piles is plural, but no indication yet how much dungeon filler you will get for 2 gold there.

I'd like to see more piles of bones (not really the "bones sprue") and monster rubbish to fill those empty squares, but this did not seem to be something anyone suggested. I have yet to find a bathroom in a dungeon, so this must just be everywhere… "Watch your step down there adventurer!"

I really like the broken barrels so I will be grabbing those as well.

[whitebeard]

What source imaged did you use for your large board?

I used the standard board posted in the gallery on the forum . This is the one with the HEROQUEST logo on the bottom and is about 90mb. It is very nice. The re-print came out very vibrant!

Did you score the board after you mounted the image, so that it could fold?

I had to print it on US Letter sized sheets. If I had to do it over again, I would break it into two images so as to set one of the edges (one of VERY many) to be the exact center.

I bought two pieces of Black Foam Board from Michael's Craft Store. Each is large enough for half of the board. And the fold would again be the un-cut edge.

I picked-up Krylon spray adhesive and mounted the pieces to it. FYI: I also managed to mount a few small bugs in the process as well.

I tried to make a straight cut around the board with my new Exacto Knife, but it was not so good.

Then I hit the paper with Krylon spray Lacquer. The first light coat did just about nothing, so I got impatient and hit it again too soon and it started to pull away from the foam board backing and curl at the edges. I ran out and bought some transparent contact paper which was wide enough to mount each half board piece without any seams. It wraps over my sloppy cuts on the sides and just looks excellent!

I have Black Gorilla Tape ("Duct Tape calls this stuff a barbarian" ) and I used that to seal the edges of the contact paper while pulling very tightly on the back of the board. The back of the tape also gives the board a nice rubbery surface which grabs a smooth table a bit better than a foam board does.

Last, I taped (Gorilla taped) the two board halves together from the back. This allows the board to fold with the pretty side out. To prevent the sticky tape side from being exposed and collecting pet hair, etc. I cut thin pieces of the tape and sealed it from the other side. It is seamless when unfolded on the table.

Despite the various imperfections, it is beautiful to look at.

There are two drawbacks I see so far.
(1) The foam damages easily. You should not plant your elbow on it, or you will have a permanent divot. My board has survived three sessions with 7 and 8 year olds, and it still looks perfect, so that's working out.
(2) The board does not fit in the box. When my Twisting Catacombs stuff shows up, I'm going to have to figure out a new box solution anyways.