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Printing tiles

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Re: Printing tiles

Post by KT_Cobra » September 14th, 2014, 10:06 am

slev wrote:For the glue, I use "3M Spray Mount", you should be able to buy it in any decent art supply shop. It's pricey, but so worth it!

Better still, it's use is so common that there are various tutorials on using it all over the internet!

Thanks. I'll try that.

Re: Printing tiles

Post by slev » September 14th, 2014, 4:10 am

For the glue, I use "3M Spray Mount", you should be able to buy it in any decent art supply shop. It's pricey, but so worth it!

Better still, it's use is so common that there are various tutorials on using it all over the internet!

Re: Printing tiles

Post by KT_Cobra » September 11th, 2014, 11:44 am

If I were to get a game board printed (poster-like) and wanted to apply it to mounting or greyboard, what kind of glue should I use? I don't want the glue to show through, have large bumps after drying, etc. I'm thinking maybe some kind of liquid glue that you brush on...?
I think I'm going to use PrinterStudio.com for the poster like Mr.BigB used for his cards. I'm probably going to get the cards printed by them too. It's too cheap and great of quality for me to not take advantage of that.
viewtopic.php?f=165&t=2003

Re: Printing tiles

Post by Jander » September 9th, 2014, 5:02 pm

Excellent information. Thanks

Re: Printing tiles

Post by KT_Cobra » September 9th, 2014, 10:00 am

slev wrote:Greyboard is perfect for making game boards, mount board is easier for overlays.

Large pieces of mountboard will "bow" out and not lie flat, but it is much easier to cut into the precise small shapes needed by overlays.

Greyboard will NOT usefully bend. This is why you construct the hinge out of bookbinding tape. This joins two pieces of board and provides a solid hinge that will not easily wear out.

I'm in the middle of buiding some boards at the moment for another game. I'll try & take some photos!

Thanks. Much appreciated, and that makes sense about the bookbinding tape.

Re: Printing tiles

Post by slev » September 9th, 2014, 9:13 am

Greyboard is perfect for making game boards, mount board is easier for overlays.

Large pieces of mountboard will "bow" out and not lie flat, but it is much easier to cut into the precise small shapes needed by overlays.

Greyboard will NOT usefully bend. This is why you construct the hinge out of bookbinding tape. This joins two pieces of board and provides a solid hinge that will not easily wear out.

I'm in the middle of buiding some boards at the moment for another game. I'll try & take some photos!

Re: Printing tiles

Post by KT_Cobra » September 9th, 2014, 8:45 am

Nice job there.
I looked up "chipboard". It seems to be a little thinner than the typical mounting board, but it also states in the questions section that it's not good for folding. If I were to make a recreation of a game board complete with center fold (as my project will require), should I just use the mounting board or something else?
Sorry for the constant questions; I'm not good at the crafting/artistic thing.

Re: Printing tiles

Post by slev » September 9th, 2014, 7:15 am

Jander wrote:What type of cutter are you using? My wife is a scrapbooker, so I can always buy another cutter for her. :wink wink:


You want a rotary cutter, with a steel rule and a self-healing mat.

For the backing, 1-2mm board is fine, unless you're making a whole board, which you;re best to use 1.5-2mm greyboard (or "chipboard" if you're in the USA), making hinges with bookbinding tape.

Re: Printing tiles

Post by Redav » September 9th, 2014, 1:42 am

Jander wrote:Has anyone found a good card stock for printing out tiles and the like? I am hoping to find something with a bit of shine to it that you can put through an inkjet printer.

I printed onto A4 size white label sheets and stuck them onto card. I then used a guillotine to trim the tiles to size. They look great

Re: Printing tiles

Post by chaoticprime » September 9th, 2014, 12:19 am

I have made four modular boards, and only one of them exists today. Lots of error-correction. I made a pdf with everything set-up and ready to go, but you'd have to settle on a tile per page. Its also not the weight of the material you print on, but the brightness. You want them to look their best, because you can mount them to anything. Don't use corkboard as its *lemony goodness*. Don't use mounting board because its *lemony goodness*. Use MDF board or chipboard. That said, playing on a modular board is a drag that more or less makes playing the evil wizard a lot more work than necessary. I play on an enlarged version of the complete board cobbled together from resin tiles on a sheet of mdf board.

This was a semi-modular board I made using resin tiles and rejected. I later remade it into my current board.
Image

Here it is after I decided to secure the rooms down.
Image

For some reason I don't have any photos of my current modular board, but I have to say that after I drew a grid on the steel sheet to make laying down the tiles easier (and much faster) I realized that I had basically come full circle, and had not achieved anything that the board didn't already do. I still had a board, and I still had to pretend some of it wasn't there. So I changed my focus to playability.

This guy is my main play board. Its not finished being painted, but the primary goal was to have a bigger and better board that doesn't fit four squares across 3.5 inches of space. I made this one by accidentally over-sanding the above 3D board which eliminated its details rather strikingly. I did manage to come out of it with an en even surface. Not having doors tip over is nice, and is the number one reason modular boards are a pain in the ass. If you don't anchor them down (like with magnets) its just extra work to play the game.
Image

I say there is no benefit from play with a modular board, only extra work to achieve the same thing you could already could. Throughout all of this it was important to me to not change any of the native dimensions of the rooms or hallways, also. Its enough that you may have to lay out the entire top or bottom hallway all at once and hope it keeps straight, but when you add having to approximate the directions in the Quest Books because you aren't using the exact same map specifications, playing the game as the evil-wizard turns into a freakin' chore.

This is my first modular tile set on mounting board that basically turned out to be an expensive and underwhelming boondoggle.
Image

This is my second modular tile set, on the same mounting board. The first set didn't assemble correctly modularly, so I made these....which also didn't, but for different reasons. This one was also fit with magnetic backs. Turns out its a pain in the ass to set them up without a gridded reference on the table--the steel sheet they're sticking to wasn't working painted all-black.
Image

Here that one is again, set up into a quest map.
Image

Here's a close-up of my tile-board, after I made all the rooms fixed on the board. The tiles were hard to cast identically, so the height variations between the tiles became something hard to regulate that could ruin play.
Image

Here is a link to the gallery with all my tiles with white wall areas sized perfectly to fit together. Most people just get rid of them, but they serve a purpose.
http://s619.photobucket.com/user/chaoti ... t=3&page=1

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